How-to: Neckerchief-Style T-Shirt Scarf

It’s still sweltering here in Atlanta during the day, but we’ve had some nice cool mornings and evenings lately. Fall is in the air, and this light, cozy t-shirt scarf is just right for those cool-but-not-cold times of day.

I know, t-shirt scarves are kind of old news, but the ones I’ve made have always been that spaghetti-style: lots of skinny pieces of stretched jersey. Those are fun to make and cute, but chances are you’ve seen a thousand of them by now. What I like about this scarf is the chunky pieces of fabric and the faux neckerchief detail. Here’s how to make your own!

Materials

reclaimed t-shirt – clean out your dresser, or hit the thrift store to find a shirt that’s the right color for your scarffabric scissorssewing machine, pins, and thread in a coordinating color – I used a contrasting color, so you could see my stitching, but you’d really want yours to blend

Directions

1. Lay your t-shirt out on a flat surface, and cut the bottom seam off. Set this aside, but don’t discard it. You’ll need it later.

2. Cut your shirt horizontally from armpit to armpit, right under the sleeves. Then, cut the rectangle you just made in half horizontally. When you’re done, it will look like this:

3. You’ll be left with two tubes of fabric. Cut one of the shirt’s side seams out of each tube. Most t-shirts will have two side seams, but you only need to cut one open. Once they’re open, stretch the fabric. As you stretch it will start to curl under, which is what you want.

4. Time to sew! You should now have two long pieces of stretched jersey fabric. Grab your two pieces and lay two of the short sides together, right sides in. Pin and use a wide zig zag stitch to sew your pieces together. Make sure you back stitch on either end, so your stitches will be nice and strong.

5. Repeat step 4 with the other unfinished edges of your fabric. When you’re done, you should have a big loop of jersey.

6. Double that loop over, bringing the seams that you just sewed together, then grab that bottom seam of the shirt that you set aside earlier. Slide that bottom seam under your scarf where the two seams meet up. Knot that bottom seam piece around your scarf so that it hides the seams you sewed.

That’s it! To wear your t-shirt scarf, you can let it hang low or double it over. In the photo at the top of this post, it’s doubled over to really work that neckerchief look.

The shirt I used, and the one on the mannequin, were extras from this year’s World Domination Summit. My awesome friend Jen Neitzel from The Maven Circle helped organize the event and when they had a bunch of leftover shirts, she was kind enough to send me a few to craft with.

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How-to: Save and Store Melted Wax for Future Craft Projects

So you made candles, or preserved autumn leaves, or cooked up furniture polish, or crafted modeling wax for the kiddos, and now you’re left with a crock pot or bain-marie half-full of melted beeswax (or its vegan wax substitutes).

Here’s the easy way that I store my leftover wax, measured into known amounts so that future projects are easier to put together, and pretty enough that the wax can be stored right out in the open, leaving more storage space for my fabric stash:

Portion melted wax into silicon molds or muffin tins to harden for easy storage.

To easily save and store your wax, you simply need to know that you can pour melted wax into any mufifn tins, ice cube trays, or novelty silicon molds and pop it out when hardened, leaving behind no residue.

Melt down chunks of beeswax like these, and re-harden them in molds that allow for better portioning and more efficient storage.

Therefore, you probably already have in your house molds of the perfect size to store your leftover melted wax. If you primarily use your wax in bath and body recipes, choosing mini muffin tins or ice cube trays will allow you to store your wax in small portion sizes.

If you primarily use a pot full of melted wax at a time, choosing cupcake molds or mini loaf tins will allow you to store your wax in large chunks.If you buy wax wholesale, as I do, in a big box of bits and pieces and chunks of random size, melting down your wax and hardening it in molds like these will allow you to store it much more efficiently, taking up much less space.

I live in a small house, and my own storage space for stuff is pretty tight, so I’ve learned that if I pour my wax into novelty molds, so that the hardened wax comes out shaped like leaves, and flowers, and LEGOs, I can store the wax not on a shelf in my craft room, but in a little basket on a shelf in pretty much every room in the house. The wax looks pretty, smells like honey, and it’s easy to gather up when I’m ready for my next project.

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How-to: Hand-Dipped Wax Candles

Hand-dipping candles is no longer a labor-intensive pioneer chore. Using an old crock pot or a DIY stovetop bain-marie,  a hand-dipped candle becomes an easy, kid-friendly craft project, one that can stock an entire season of candlelit dinners in a single afternoon.

Although I’m using beeswax for these candles, you can use any non-petroleum-based wax–check out Becky’s article on vegan beeswax alternatives for specific tips.

Melt your solid wax in a crock pot.

1. Melt your solid wax in a crock pot. Score a cheap old crock pot at a thrift store, or purchase a second bowl for your current crock pot to use with crafts. Drop the solid chunks of wax into the crock pot (here I’m using a ton of beeswax bought in bulk a few months ago), turn it on low, and wait for it to melt.

If you’re using a DIY stovetop bain-marie the process is the same, but you’ll want to keep a closer eye on your work.

2. Cut wicking. You can find cotton candlewicking at any crafts store; after your wax has melted, eyeball a measurement that’s roughly double the depth of wax in the pot plus another inch or so for your fingers to hold.  Don’t worry about being too fussy with the measurements, since you’ll be able to simply trim off any excess wicking later.

Prime the wick with wax, then straighten it to prepare it for dipping.

3. Prime the wick with wax. While this isn’t completely necessary, I find that it makes dipping the candle much easier. Next to your crock pot, set up an old cup filled with cold water. Holding the wicking by two fingers in the middle, dip both ends of the wick into the wax to the depth you’d like your candle to be, then immediately lift it up and dip it into and out of the cold water. Use your fingers to straighten the wick so that there won’t be any kinks or curves in your candle. Repeat one or two more times, until the wick comes out of the wax nice and straight. Now it’s ready to dip!

To make hand-dipping even more kid-friendly, increase the length of the wicking by another inch or so and wrap the middle around a pencil, stick, or popsicle stick to give your kids a better grip. When my kids were younger, I marked both ends of the wick with a marker at a spot a safe distance from their fingers, and instructed them to dip their candles no further than that mark.

Dip the wicks into cold water after dipping them into melted wax.

4. Hand-dip your candles. Go back and forth, quickly dipping your wicks into the pot of melted wax, then quickly dipping them into the cup of cold water, and then back into the wax. The candles will increase in size pretty quickly, since the dips into cold water will decrease wax loss and allow the candles to take up a greater amount of wax each time.

If you have a particular candleholder in mind, you can periodically measure your candles so that you’ll know when to stop. Otherwise, whenever your candles have reached a pleasing diameter, give them one last dip in cold water, then hang them to cool. A towel bar is fine in a pinch, although a portable indoor drying rack will allow you to set your drying station up right next to where you’re hand-dipping.

To use your candles, cut them apart and trim the wicks down. They store indefinitely, and they make excellent holiday gifts.

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How-to: Poured Wax Candles in Repurposed Glass Containers

Poured candles are even simpler to make than hand-dipped candles or rolled candles–all they require are wicking, melted wax, and a heat-resistant repurposed container.

You can also have just as much variety with your homemade poured candles as you can with fancy, store-bought container candles, since you can vary the shape of your jar, change the color of your wax, and even add essential oils for a healthy scent.

To make your own poured wax candle, you’ll need the following:

repurposed glass container: This should be a container that you’re confident is heat-resistant, and it should be in perfect condition, with absolutely no chips or cracks. I usually upcycle food storage jars, such as Mason jars, small pesto or tapenade jars, or other glass food storage containers that can withstand high temperatures.eco-friendly natural wax: Choose beeswax, which is the wax that I’m using for this project, or a vegan beeswax alternative. Do not use paraffin or similar petroleum-derived waxes.natural fabric wicking: Depending on the wax that you use, cotton and hemp wicking can both be both good options. Measure the wicking so that it will just touch the bottom of the glass, then wrap the excess around a pencil.

1. Prime the wicking. Just as you do when making hand-dipped candles, prime the wicking by dipping it melted wax, allowing it to cool, and then straightening it with your fingers. This will make the wicking easier to work with, since now it will be stiff but malleable.

2. Measure out the wicking for one candle. Now that the wick is stiff, it’s easy to measure it out so that one end will just touch the bottom of your glass container. Wrap the other end around a pencil that’s balanced across the rim of your container. I often don’t cut the wicking at all at this point–if you wait to cut the wicking until you’re finished with the candle, then you’ll have zero wasted wick.

When the wick is measured and set up, remove it from the glass container and set it aside.

Pour in a thin layer of melted wax, then re-insert the wick and let harden.

3. Pour a thin layer of melted wax into the container. If you poured the entire container full, you’d melt the wax that’s stiffening your wick, and it would float off-center. Instead, pour just a thin layer–a half-inch or so–of melted wax into the bottom of the container.

4. Insert wick. NOW put the wick back into the container, centering it evenly from bottom to top. Let the entire container rest until that bottom layer of wax is completely hardened.

Adding crayon bits to the container, then pouring melted wax on top of them, will color the wax.

5. Pour the candle. When the bottom layer of wax is hardened, so that you’re sure that the wick will stay put, you may pour the rest of your candle. You can simply fill the container with melted wax to about 1/4? from the rim, or:

Add color. On top of the hardened layer of wax, drop a few chunks of soy or beeswax crayon. Pour a new layer of hot melted wax to cover the crayon, and watch as the crayon melts and dyes that layer. Let harden and repeat.
Add scent. Add several drops of your favorite essential oils, just before or as you’re pouring the wax. Add more than you think you want, since some of the scent will burn off as it’s put into contact with the hot wax. Let harden.

A candle made this way will last for a LONG time, and when it’s finally burned out, fill it back up for a whole new candle!

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How-to: Craft DIY Wax Seals Using Crayons and Stamps

Our poor old crayons have a hard life with us. Just this week alone my daughters made recycled crayons in skull and LEGO silicone molds for a birthday gift, got out the power tools to experiment with drilling on some big crayons, and used up all the candles in the house making encaustic art with crayons.

As the three of us sat at our big living room table, the kiddos melting crayons all over artist’s canvas, me working on an altered book for an anniversary present for my husband, I took a second look at their pools of molten wax and my little clay stamps, and all of a sudden I had another recycled embellishment for my book.

Whether you’d like to use a wax seal on a letter, a gift, or your own altered art, this candle + stamp method is just as quick and easy as using traditional sealing wax supplies–and it’s cheaper!

If you’ve ever used my encaustic crayon art tutorial, the beginning of this project will look familiar. Take an unbroken crayon (it’s longer, so that your fingers can grip it better away from the flame), remove the wrapper using an X-acto knife to slice the paper, and light a candle.

Hold the flame to the tip of the crayon just above the point where you’d like your wax seal, and allow several drops of melted crayon to puddle on that spot.

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How-to: Make an Upcycled Smash Book

I love the new smash books from K and Company. They are such fun to work with. The different themes and papers are gorgeous, and I love that each page is a surprise. I got one of these books to document my journey in 2011 and have been hard at work filling that journal up. This year I wanted to make an upcycled smash book, rather than buy one that uses all new materials. Here’s how you can make your own!

Smash Books are basically pre-bound scrapbooks, but instead of plain pages, which can be daunting to fill, they have patterned papers and papers with sayings on them. The books are made from good quality card stock and can take a lot of memorabilia glued, taped or stapled to the pages.

The entire process of just adding pictures and memorabilia to the pages without bothering about the perfect layout and look is what is called ‘smashing.’ This makes these new smash books fun and easy to work with. The pages are beautifully coordinated and put together with an occasional ‘surprise’ page with a saying or picture that you would not expect. The books are coordinated with a lot of extras that you can buy as well, like pockets, stickers, and tabs.

Before you get started, you want to identify what you love about current smash books and set out to mimic that look using only upcycled materials. Sounds like a challenge, right? It is, but the results will be so fantastic that you won’t believe that all of these items were  destined for the trash can.

Greeting cards make great embellishments for upcycled smash book pages.

Let’s start with what I love about the smash books:

The pages are all different and yet seem to come together because of an overall theme and color palette.They always contain a few unexpected pages, with big bold typography or a cute quote.

That is the look I want to mimic in my upcycled smash book. I love use upcycled materials in my projects, so I have a big box that is home to soda cans, plastic packaging, old books, old children’s picture books, interesting magazines and mailers…you name it, and I probably have it in my treasure chest. Here are a few ideas for upcycled materials that you can use in your smash book:

Catalogs and mailers. Junk mail catalogs just go in the bin after you’ve perused them. Instead, you can use mailers or pages from catalogues to make very interesting smash book pages!Art experiments gone bad. Prints I wasn’t crazy about from a print-making class will find their way into my upcycled smash book and will make awesome textured backgrounds.Old photographs. I love to take photographs and get a lot of my work printed in large sizes. Sometimes I end up framing the prints and other times they just make their way into my craft stash. Some of these photographs make really cool pages. I especially like the print shown above for use in my smash book. I cut the larger picture in two and used it to make one two page layout.Wedding invites or fun shaped cards. You can always add a layer of gesso or make a collage. They also work well as smaller pages, pockets, or inserts to add visual interest to the book. What I love about making my own smash book is that I can incorporate a lot of different paper with different colours and textures. I can also choose to add pockets and customize the folio to my needs.Raid your stash. I also have some papers in my scrapbooking stash that will work well.Reclaimed cardboard. This is for the cover.

You will also need:

Glue. You’ll want to use mod podge or a glue stick to smash your pages.Scissors. If you have other specialty paper cutting tools, like a die cutter or punches, you can use those on your smash book, too!

Now it’s time to dig into your stash and make that smash book. Plan to have about 40 pages in your book. That is the size the actual smash books are too.

1. Gather all the images you plan to use and cut pages out of them. I used a slightly smaller size than typical smash books, but you can pick any size you are comfortable working with. My only advice would be to keep it smaller than an A4 size to make sure the pages are sturdy enough to withstand all sorts of smashing.

Pages for my smash book, ready to be cut to size!

2. Punch your pages and bind them. Use a hole punch and 3 book rings to bind the book. Punch the holes on your first page, then stack your second page behind and use those first holes as guides to punch the next ones. This method will make sure your book ends up stacking evenly. Once the holes are punched, you can clip on the book rings to secure everything in place. What I love about using the book rings is that I can always go and add more pages if I feel I need to. There is a lot of room to play and experiment, add and subtract.

3. Make your cover. Cut out a cover that’s the same size as your pages out of your reclaimed cardboard and punch holes that match the holes on your pages. Then, you’re ready to decorate your cover. I covered the cover pieces in an old photograph print that had gotten creased and could not be used for anything else. The crease was very easy to conceal while covering the book.

4. Get smashing! The smash book is now ready for all your adventures and lots of smashing What are you going to document in your smash book?

I decided to use it to document my journey through 2012, so the first page I made in my book had highlights from an awesome day where I  just generally felt blessed and happy. The feeling was something I wanted to remember since I had been pretty tired lately and a little overwhelmed with massive to-do lists both at home and work. This felt like the perfect way to start my upcycled smash book. You can see what my first page looks like at the top of this post!

Making this page was quite a smashing experience.  Have an artsy day y’all! Hope you enjoyed this upcycling adventure

[All images courtesy of Mahe Zehra Husain]

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How-to: Make a Repurposed Table Runner

Have you ever started a project, and it just gets gigantic by the end? A few weeks ago, we decided to rearrange the furniture in our living room, replacing a giant, 3-piece entertainment center with a smaller situation that wouldn’t look so looming in there. When we took the old one apart, it turned out that each piece on its own was super awesome! The base is now a window seat in my office, the top piece makes a perfect long shoe rack for the hallway, and the middle piece was just right for a kitchen sideboard. So, instead of rearranging the living room, we sort of rearranged the entire house!

The only trouble with this sideboard is that there were some visible screws at the top. Since this thing wasn’t designed to be a sideboard, there was no reason to cover them up. Now that it’s in the kitchen, though, I wanted to hide those ugly screws. A table runner to the rescue!

Of course, I could have hit up the big box store for a table runner, but where’s the fun in that? Plus, those store-bought situations tend to involve either conventional cotton or some type of polyester, and they’re made in far-off factories. Who knows what the labor practices are there, right? Instead, I hit my stash and whipped up this reclaimed table runner that’s exactly the right size for my new sideboard. Here’s how you can make a table runner of your own!

Materials

Fabric. I used a burlap coffee sack and a bed sheet from the thrift store. The size you cut will depend on the size you need, so you’ll need to raid your stash accordingly. I’ll get into sorting out measurements below!Measuring tape.Sewing machine, pins, thread

Directions

1. Get your measurements. I needed a finished runner that was about 13? wide by 80? long. Since I didn’t have any fabric that was those sizes, I went with 2 panels of burlap on the back and 2 panels of bedsheet fabric on the front. I cut each panel to 13.5? X 41?. See the math there? Add .5? to the width for your seam allowance, and for each panel, add 1? for seam allowance. Since mine was 80? long, each panel needed to be 80?÷2+1?, which is 41?.

2. Cut your fabric. Cut out your panels and iron them.

3. Pin your panels. Take the two pieces of fabric that are going to be the top, and pin the 13.5?  sides right sides together on one side. Sew that side together, so now you have one long piece, instead of two shorter panels. Do the same with the fabric you’re using for your backing. Iron everything again.

4. Pin your runner. Lay your back panel, right side up. Now, take your front panel and lay it right side down on top of it. Pin everything in place.

5. Time to sew! Stitch all the way around the edges of your runner leaving a 1/4? inseam. Make sure you also leave yourself a 3? gap, so that you can turn your runner right side out again.

6. Turn and finish your runner. Use that gap I just mentioned to turn your project right side out. Grab that iron again, and press the whole thing, so it’s laying flat. You’ll want to tuck in the unfinished edges of the gap that you left, so it looks all finished and lined up with the rest of the runner’s edge. Now, run it through the machine again to top stitch around the whole edge. This will help things stay flat and close that 3? gap that you left.

7. Optional quilty fun! If you want to make things extra fun, grab that runner one more time, and run it through the machine to quilt it. You can do standard straight lines, if you want, or be like me and do fun, random, wavy lines up and down your whole runner.

8. Iron again. I know, you’re sick of ironing, but do it one last time to set your stitches and give your runner a nice, professional look.

That’s it! Have you guys made a table runner or other linens before? I’d love to hear what you’re sewing in the comments!

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How-to: DIY Mosaics-No Kits, only concrete!

Do you know these kits adorable concrete mosaic sold in all craft of big box stores, the all the things you need to do a mosaic of concrete, digital optional, to put in your spring garden path? Does that seem really fun to do and you're pretty sure that the grandparents love just one of his sons?

Yes, may make dozens and dozens of their own mosaics concrete for the same price as one of the mosaic kits and even cheaper, if you use found and natural objects to the tiles of mosaic and recycle packaging plastic for concrete molds.

Seriously, the only material that needs to buy to make mosaics of concrete is concrete. And Yes, you can buy fantasy concrete mosaic pants if you want to spend the money, but also can head down to your local MOM and pop hardware and just bought you same some…concrete. That's all. If he is called concrete or cement, to work, and is cheap, so I say now to the spring for the more expensive cement, higher - grade. If you buy the cheaper concrete in the courtyard of the middle of the screening day you will find all your particular shingle and simply don't have such problems.

You can also replace the cement for concrete mortar, and frankly the cement mortar is my favorite because it doesn't have the pebbles for sift.

Before you spend money in particular, has been worth pursuing Freecycle some-people rarely time acquire only the right amount of materials for a given project and even a quarter of a bag of cement is going to make him well.

Mix concrete, leaving an old boat, an old Cup and an agitator of painting. Measure a quantity of concrete that will fill your mold (you know how to fill a mould with water and then pour it into a measuring cup to find the volume?) (Science in action!), and only enough water from the tap, a little at a time, to give concrete a consistency like brownie batter. This is really the only part of the project is a mess, since it mixes concrete is dusty, so do it on the porch.

While your specific're Freecycling, see if anyone has any concrete moulds mosaic that seeks to get rid of, but to carry containers, containers deli, Silicon Cake molds, and any packaging plastic shit that you're stuck you to figure out how to recycle also make perfect moulds for mosaics. If you are concerned with maintaining its mosaic in the mold (which probably not), fat thing up a bit first with oil, lotion or you have kitchen utensils.

First concrete in the mould, the filling slightly and lift the mold and thump down a few times to release the mix air bubbles. Use the shaker of the painting as a straight edge to scrape the Nice concrete, flat and levelled with the edge of the mold.

Mosaic tiles, a walk around your House and pick up all the little loose bits and detritus of daily life, beads and buttons for nuts and washers game pieces and LEGOs. Do their children do not play already hungry hungry hippos? Take the marbles! Are you tired of making friendship bracelets? Grab the pony beads!

Shop savings, smashed to smithereens, plates also make tiles of excellent mosaic, like River rocks.

This is a reality, really simple mosaic, basically the simplest is an excellent introduction to the art and a good project for beginners, so no we are concerned about the mouthpiece or any other nonsense. All you have to do is push each tile mosaic in the concrete until it is level with the top of the mold. As you can see in the photo, guys to do this, and you can do it in your living room table. It is simple.

Slide your mold concrete somewhere in the form (try not to take her around still!) for a few hours, then go on each Mosaic Mosaic with a toothbrush old brush away any bit specific. Later, when the healing time listed in the bag of cement, has come to review the tiles again with a damp cloth them clean and shine them up. Give their mosaics for Christmas and planting them in her garden in the spring. Finally, you will have a good place to stay while you admire the Basil!

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How-to: SEW lonchera cloth diapers for waste-free picnic bags

Of all my friends mother with children attending schools, does not know any of them have their children buy school lunch. They say that it is quite expensive, on the one hand and is certainly not nutritionally superior or better tasting brought food from home, and so my friends Pack lunches for their children.

Even my small gang of girls student have their own lunch packages, and although not eat in a cafeteria of the school every day, eat a packaged meals several times a week-breakfast at the public library of one day, lunch in the stream, another day, dinner in the car's road to gymnastics Thursday, etc..

We have been here in CAGW, sew our own cloth napkins dinner for a while (see tutorial diaper Becky DIY fabric for a good example). Really don't need a full-size napkin dinner in your toddler bento box lunch, however. Instead, review how to sew cloth diapers size lonchera which fit very well into my children packed lunches. And, as a bonus, sewing my napkins with a double thickness, so that they have extra absorbency for Trapeado up to spills…not that their children are messy, of course.

The most important (and fun) part of any project of Couture, for me, is the choice of my fabric. If you're looking for your fabric stash, choose two pieces of cotton fabric that are on the square of 9. 5?, but especially with the children and especially picky children, sometimes a special fabric can make all the difference in an eaten lunch and a used napkin. Although the dimensions will work to be slightly different, really to make these two fat quarters Lunchbox cloth napkins, so if you know of a store that sells copies of cotton novelty chopped into quarters fat, then sorry free to seize his son and head in envelope.

Its structure of iron, and then set both pieces outside the table of court, right sides together. If you use two fat quarters, cut all the edges with the rotating cutting tool squaring them, then, cut their fat rooms right in the middle of the length and width, so that it has four identical pairs. Remember, you'll be rectangles and the dimensions will not be 9. 5? square, but it will still be a large and four of them-one will have more and you're good for a week!

If you are using fabric stash, you have more size options and you may want to sew their napkins a custom size to fit perfectly into your bento box, but it seems a 9? square napkin is a good size, larger than a paper napkin but small enough to be manageable for a child.

Cut 1/2 more napkin everywhere that the dimensions finishes, to accommodate hemming and turning.

With right sides together, NIP your napkin two pieces around all the way, but use chalk to mark in a length of 3.5 in the middle of a hand that I leave unsewn.

Starting at one end of the 3.5 length, sewing around the entire perimeter of his napkin. Stop when you get around all the way to the other side of that length 3.5.

The four corners of the napkin of clip and then turn right side exit. Use a gray pencil or a toothpick to put the crisp and pleasant corners.

The napkin of iron which is straight and the hems are nice, double this length 5? bass and iron the wrinkles.

Select a thread that looks good with its fabric and higher stitch all the way around the perimeter of the napkin, that length of 3.5 sewing closed with Haute Couture as you go.

Are they looking at the rubber band in my sewing machine? My seven-year-old daughter is helping me to sew these napkins, and put a rubber band around the sewing machine serves as a guide of cloth to help maintain proper seam allowance.

Now, I know you don't want to have these napkins, iron, so the last thing you do is you woven a bit, so it won't be all wonky in the washing machine. You can do this simply by above just seams a pair of horizontal and vertical lines through each napkin, but it is also fun to use printing on one side of the napkin as a guide-I had padded this napkin of Tiger-print following the curves of the tiger stripes to the foot of quilting on my sewing machine sewing loops around another napkin mushrooms.

And when you are finished with that, go to eat food!

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How-to: Transform Classic Christmas “Candles”

Después de leer el bricolaje: puesto de falda de árbol de Navidad de reliquia de familia, estaba inspirado en el espíritu de Navidad! Quería tomar un tema clásico de Navidad y convertirlo en algo diferente y hermoso igual que Karen. ¿Tienes estos?

Siempre he pensado que estas falsas Navidad "velas" eran algo raro, especialmente aquellas con bombillas rojas. Aun así, definitivamente son un símbolo de la Navidad! Quería hacer una cobertura para las velas hacerlos bastante, pero aún mantenerlos festiva. Algo que todos debe saber acerca de mí es que soy un poco adicto al uso de rollos de papel higiénico en mis proyectos de naves. Naturalmente, había usado en este proyecto así!

1. Papel higiénico rollos (utilicé 4-5 rollos para 1 cubierta)

2. Pistola de pegamento hot

3. Pintura en aerosol: usé rojo para ir con el tema de la Navidad.

4. Tijeras

5. Papel encerado

6. Velas de Navidad

1. Cortar los rollos de papel higiénico en trozos de ½ pulgada.

2. Establecen el patrón de su elección. Esto es lo mío parecía:

3. Pegue las piezas de papel higiénico juntos usando una pistola de pegamento caliente. Inicio por les pegado en formas de flor como tal:

4. A continuación, pegue las flores para hacer a un lado todo. Hará que cuatro de estos lados. Básicamente lo que hará es cuadro en la vela.

5. Pintar los cuatro lados. Asegúrese de que obtener todas las grietas! Pintura en aerosol no es la oferta de artesanía más verde, tan optar por la pintura en aerosol bajo-VOC, si se puede.

6. Una vez que las secciones se han secado, usted será caliente pegue les juntos. Esto es algo complicado, pero ser paciente (y no quemar los dedos!). Pegados de minas en el borde para que no se superpongan demasiado.

7. A continuación, tomar su papel de cera y cortar lo suficiente para cubrir el interior de su "caja". Para hacer el papel de cera permanecer en el lugar, puse un dab de pegamento caliente en la parte superior e inferior de cada rincón de la "caja".

8. Una vez que tienes tu papel encerado en su lugar, se puede cortar alrededor de la parte superior del diseño como lo hice, o puede mantenerla cuadrados. (Sugerencia: Si decide mantener cuadrada en la parte superior, asegúrese de colocar el borde recto del papel cera en la parte superior y cortar el exceso papel desde la parte inferior.)

Este es mi producto terminado:

Me encanta cómo es todavía festivo de Navidad, pero hemos añadido un destello moderno a algo clásico.

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